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Common  Sense 


about 

Interions 


Introduction 

\ 

Principles  of  Decoration 

1 he  Aim 

The  aim  of  the  wood  finisher  is  to  get  as  beautiful  and  as 
harmonious  effects  as  possible  with  as  little  expense  of  money 
and  labor  as  he  may. 

At  the  same  time  it  must  be  remembered  that  there  is  “no 
excellence  without  labor,”  and  that  however  good  the  material 
used,  there  must  be  proper  labor  in  preparing  the  surface  and  in 
performing  the  work. 

It  does  not  follow  that  a high  degree  of  skill  is  necessary  or 
that  a large  expense  must  be  incurred  in  order  to  give  tasteful  and 
harmonious  results.  V ery  often  the  inexperienced  workman  who 
follows  closely  and  intelligently  the  directions  of  the  manufac- 
turer will  secure  better  results  than  the  more  experienced  work- 
man who  does  not  give  thought  and  effort. 

Rare  woods  and  most  hard  woods  are  expensive  and  usually 
require  much  labor  to  finish  them  properly.  The  beautiful  ivory- 
like surfaces  seen  in  kings’  palaces  have  been  accomplished  by 
much  labor,  often  ten  or  twelve  or  even  fifteen  coats  having  been 
given,  with  the  proper  rubbings,  before  this  result  is  obtained. 
But  the  paint  and  varnish  manufacturer  of  today  has  been  able 
to  provide  materials  and  methods  which  will  make  the  home 
beautiful  and  still  be  within  the  ability  of  the  average  house 
owner  to  possess. 

It  takes  something  other  than  money  to  secure  good  taste. 
The  many  home  magazines  and  the  booklets  published  by  The 
Lowe  Brothers  Company  like  “Homes  Attractive  from  Gate  to 
Garret,”  etc.,  are  helping  to  educate  the  home  maker  to  the 
truest  taste. 

Harmony 

Since  decoration  does  not  exist  for  its  own  sake  but  is  intended 
to  assist  in  emphasizing  the  purpose  of  each  part  of  the  house, 
there  should  be  in  it  meaning  as  well  as  beauty. 

Color  and  style  are  the  two  important  questions  in  all  interior 
finish.  No  general  rules  can  be  offered — as  each  house,  and 
oftentimes  each  room,  must  be  studied  in  itself  as  well  as  in  its 
relation  to  surroundings  and  to  other  rooms.  The  aim  is  to 


make  the  entire  house  cheerful  and  harmonious.  The  modern 
arrangement  of  homes  which  leaves  wide  openings  between  the 
rooms  on  the  main  floors,  makes  harmony  of  color  in  all  these 
rooms  particularly  important.  In  general,  different  tones  of  the 
same  color  in  adjoining  rooms  (throughout  a floor)  assure  best 
satisfaction.  Dark  rooms  must  have  one  treatment  and  light 
rooms  another.  There  ought  to  be  plenty  of  color  and  yet  no  discord 
or  garishness.  The  essential  things  are  good  taste  and  restfulness. 

The  greatest  thoughtfulness  in  decoration  may  be  offset  bv 
mistakes  in  furnishing;  hence  the  furniture  should  be  as  carefully 
studied  as  the  decoration. 

Accomplishment 

If  the  room  is  dark,  use  light  colorings;  if  light,  darker  coloi- 
ings  may  be  used.  If  on  the  sunny  side  of  the  house,  use  the 
cooler  colors;  if  on  the  north  or  shaded  Side,  use  the  warmer  colors. 

As  the  upper  part  of  the  room  is  darker  than  the  lower,  the  ceiling 
should  be  lighter 
than  the  walls,  and 
very  often  the  upper 
part  of  the  walls 
should  be  lighter 
than  the  lower. 

The  natural  gra- 
dation is  from 
floor  to  wall,  frieze 
and  ceiling.  The 
woodwork  to  give 
best  effect  should 
harmonize  with  this 
arrangement, — as  a 
rule,  being  darker 
than  the  wall  ex- 
cept where  white 
or  very  light  enam- 
els are  used  on  the 
woodwork. 

The  decoration 
of  the  walls  is 
usually  accomplished  by  wallpaper  or  paint.  Where  wallpaper 
is  used  it  may  be  either  figured  or  plain.  Extreme  care  must 
be  taken  in  the  former  case  that  the  figures  are  not  too  large  for 
the  room  and  that  they  do  not  have  too  many  colors.  In  the 
latter  case  the  work  is  simpler  and  as  a rule  more  attractive. 


FOL'K 


The  preference  today  for  both  decorative  and  sanitary  reasons, 
is  to  use  dull,  flat,  soft  colors  that  can  be  obtained  best  bv 
painting.  The  introduction  of  finish  like  Lowe  Brothers 
“Mellotone”  has  simplified  the  attainment  of  these  beautiful 
effects. 

If  the  room  is  low,  vertical  lines  in  the  paper  and  clear  wall 
in  painting  will  give  the  appearance  of  height.  If  the  room  is 
high,  a drop  ceiling,  frieze  or  lines  around  the  room  like  the 
chair  rail  at  the  usual  height,  or  picture  molding  at  the  top  of  the 
doors  or  above  the  openings,  helps  to  decrease  the  height. 

The  average  house,  with  walls  of  medium  height,  looks  best 
therefore  if  the  wall  color  is  carried  to  the  ceiling,  the  picture 
molding  in  the  corner  being  painted  the  ceiling  color. 

Reds,  yellows  and  orange  are  advancing  colors;  that  is,  they 
stand  out  and  make  the  room  seem  smaller.  Blues,  grays  and 
greens  are  receding  colors  and  add  to  the  effect  by  seeming  to 
increase  the  size  of  the  room.  Light  green  or  gray  is  therefore 
better  than  orange  for  a narrow  hall  or  for  a smaller  room  in 
which  extended  effect  is  needed.  Tans  and  browns  are  restful, 
unobtrusive  and  easily  lighted. 

It  is  important  to  maintain  harmony  of  walls  and  woodwork 
in  color  and  design,  and  also  of  draperies,  rugs  and  furniture. 
Mahogany  woodwork  and  red  walls  are  almost  sure  to  clash. 
Oak  and  green  may  be  good.  Pine  does  not  look  well  with  buff, 
while  the  same  woodwork  with  greens  or  tans  is  restful.  All 
effects  should  be  carefully  studied  before  finishing.  Take  the 
advice  of  a good  architect  or  competent  decorator  when  there  is 
a question  of  judgment. 


Kinds  of  Wood  used  for  Finish 
and  Floors 

The  beauty  of  the  finish  depends  largely  upon  the  kind  and 
condition  of  the  woods  used  and  the  care  taken  in  their  treatment. 
When  forests  were  more  abundant  than  now,  the  number  of 
woods  regarded  good  enough  for  building  was  very  limited. 
Now  many  others  are  found  to  be  beautiful. 

Quarter  and  Plain  Sawed 

The  difference  between  plain-sawed  and  quarter-sawed 
woods,  particularly  oak,  makes  the  latter  popular  for  fine  work. 
Plain-sawed  lumber  is  secured  by  sawing  a log  lengthwise  into  as 
many  boards  as  possible.  Quarter-sawed  lumber  is  secured  by 


FI  VR 


first  sawing  the  log  into  quarters,  lengthwise,  and  then  sawing 
these  quarters  into  boards  of  varying  widths.  These  lattershow 
the  grain  of  the  wood  with  the  finest  effects,  but  make  the 
lumber  much  more  expensive. 


Open  and  Close-Grain 

f or  finishing  purposes,  woods  are  generally  known  as  open  and 
close-grained.  The  open-grained  woods  are  usually  hard  woods, 
and  close-grained,  soft,  though  there  are  exceptions  to  this  division. 
The  leading  building  and  finishing  woods  may  be  arranged  thus: 

Open-Grained  Woods 

ASH.  Good  for  interior  woodwork  or  frames — not  for  floors. 
May  be  stained  with  good  effect.  Does  not  take  paint  well. 

MAHOGANY.  One  of  the  most  beautiful  woods  for  wood- 
work or  furniture.  Various  grades — some  beautiful  and  hard, 
some  spongy. 

OAK.  By  far  the  most  popular  wood  for  line  interior  finish 
in  all  parts  of  the  house,  floors  and  furniture,  because  of  its  grain, 
figure,  color,  susceptibility  to  good  finish,  and  medium  price. 
It  is  hard,  either  white  or  red  in  color,  and  lends  itself  to  stain- 
ing in  many  different  ways.  Does  not  take  paint  well. 

WALNUT.  A most  beautiful  w'ood  for  dark  finish  or  furni- 
ture, but  its  scarcity  makes  it  expensive.  It  is  hard,  takes  a fine 
finish,  and  is  particularly  good  for  dining  room,  library  or  large 
dignified  decoration. 

CHESTNUT.  Good  for  woodwork,  but  too  soft  and  spongy 
for  floors.  May  be  stained  and  varnished. 


Close  Grained  Woods 

Birch,  Red  or  Black.  Very  popular  for  interior  finish  and 
furniture — not  so  good  for  floors.  It  is  especially  beautiful  when 
stained  mahogany.  It  has  a very  fine  grain,  is  often  beautifully 
figured,  and  takes  a high  polish. 

Bass  Wood  or  White  Wood.  Used  for  interior  finish, 
generally  when  enamel  or  paint  is  to  be  used  over  it. 

CHERRY.  A beautiful  wood  for  woodwork,  taking  stain  well 
and  making  handsome  finish  whether  kept  in  natural  reddish 
tone  or  in  mahogany  color. 

Fir — (Oregon).  A light,  soft,  rather  coarse-grained  wood, 
but  compact  in  structure.  On  account  of  the  light  brown  heart 
wood  contrasting  with  light  color  of  the  outer  wood,  staining  may 
be  difficult,  but  the  result  is  good.  For  the  same  reason  painting 
should  be  three  coat  work. 

Poplar,  White  or  Yellow.  For  woodwork  or  for  exterior 
siding.  It  is  quite  soft;  expands  and  contracts  quite  a little  so 
that  it  must  be  put  on  when  very  dry;  has  a tine  grain;  takes 
paint  and  enamel  better  than  pine,  and  makes  a good  effect  with 
stains,  especially  Cherry,  Mahogany,  etc.  It  is  the  best  of  all 
woods  for  paint. 

PINE.  The  most  widely  used  of  building  woods  because  of 
its  low  price,  easy  working  qualities,  and  readiness  to  take  stain 
or  paint.  There  are  many  varieties  in  this  country,  the  most 
generally  used  being  southern,  Oregon,  white,  yellow  and  red. 
It  is  used  for  interior  finish,  floors,  and  exterior  work.  It  has  a 
beautiful  grain;  may  be  stained  in  almost  any  of  the  popular 
colors  with  excellent  effect;  in  natural  finish  it  is  generally  beau- 
tiful, and  is  so  used  more  than  any  other  wood. 

CYPRESS.  A ver}'  common  wood  for  l oth  exterior  and 
interior.  It  is  good  for  finish  but  too  soft  for  floors.  It  sometimes 
contains  considerable  pitch,  but  clear  lumber  presents  no  unusual 
difficulties  in  staining,  varnishing  or  painting.  Special  care  is  neces- 
sary to  assure  absolute  dryness  before  painting  or  varnishing. 

SYCAMORE.  A beautiful  soft  wood  for  interior  woodwork. 
It  takes  stain  well. 

MAPLE.  A very  hard  and  very  close-grained  wood,  particu- 
larly popular  for  floors.  It  takes  varnish  and  stain  well. 

California  Redwood.  A beautiful,  soft  wood,  some- 
times finished  in  natural  color  and  sometimes  in  stains  for 
mahogany,  weathered  and  green  effects.  It  is  a beautiful  light 
red,  hard  enough  for  finish  and  floors.  lor  interiors  it  is  used 
most  frequently  for  woodwork,  especially  with  mahogany  finish. 


SKVKN 


Bret  Things  in  Finishing 

Selecting  the  Wood  and  Determining 
the  Finish 


New 

The  choice  of  wood  to  be  used  for  finish  and  floors  will  be 
controlled  largely  by  the  cost  or  the  special  uses  of  the  roorr. 
The  chapter  on  woods  has  already  indicated  something  of  the 
variety  of  choice  for  American  builders  and  the  best  things  for 
various  uses. 

The  wood  chosen  will  determine,  in  part  at  least,  the  finish. 
Pine,  birch,  oak,  etc.,  lend  themselves  to  proper  stains,  while 
poplar  and  similar  woods  are  particularly  good  for  enameling, 
painting  or  flat  finishing.  “Little  Blue  Flag”  Varnish  may  be 
used  on  all  these  to  give  the  natural  effect. 

Old 

If  the  work  is  refinishing  old  woodwork  or  floors,  there  is  no 
choice  of  woods,  but  of  various  methods  of  treating  the  wood 
already  at  hand.  Even  this  may  be  given  the  effect  of  grained 
;vood  by  one  of  the  numerous  methods  now  used.  It  should  be 
noted,  however,  that  it  is  very  difficult  to  give  to  old  work  that 
has  been  painted  a new  appearance  of  natural  wood  that  has 
never  been  covered.  It  may  sometimes  be  done  by  careful 
graining. 

The  enamels  and  flat  finishes  offered  by  The  Lowe  Brothers 
Company  now  make  the  solution  of  the  old-painted-wood  prob- 
lem a comparatively  easy  one,  for  it  is  hard  to  find  anything 
more  beautiful  than  woodwork  finished  with  “Linduro,”  Vernicol 
Enamel  White,  Extra  White  Enamel  or  Interior  Enamel, 
in  white  or  tints.  These  are  durable,  easy  to  keep  clean,  and 
may  be  made  to  harmonize  with  any  scheme  of  wall  decoration 
and  hangings.  With  these  finishes  for  the  woodwork  and 
“Mellotone”  Flat  Colors  for  the  walls,  a wide  range  of  choice 
is  given  by  Lowe  Brothers  Products,  assuring  beautiful  effects. 
Mellotone  is  sometimes  used  for  woodwork  when  a flat  effect  is 
desired.  Lowe  Brothers  Flat  White  and  Eggshell  Gloss  White 
are  equally  good  for  finishing  interiors. 


RIGHT 


Preparing  the  Surface 


New 

Wood  as  it  is  turned  over  by  the  carpenter,  particularly 
machine  sanded,  even  though  specified  to  be  perfectly  smooth, 
is  as  a rule  not  fit  to  receive  proper  finish. 

The  first  essential  to  beautiful  effects  is  a perfectly  smooth 
surface;  therefore  before  filling  either  hard  or  soft  wood — wood- 
work, floor  or  furniture — the  surface  must  be  carefully  sand- 
papered with  fine  sandpaper,  rubbing  across  the  grain  as  well 
as  with  it,  brushing  off  carefully  all  dust,  then  going  over  it  again 
and  again,  brushing  until  it  is  perfectly  smooth  and  clean. 

Not  only  must  the  surface  be  smooth,  but  it  must  be  dry,  clean 
and  free  from  sap.  If  the  room  is  damp  and  the  wood  moist, 
paint  or  varnish  will  not  cling  to  it.  If  it  is  greasy,  even  from 
the  slight  touch  of  unclean  hands,  the  finish  will  be  likely  to 
come  off.  All  this  must  have  attention  when  the  sandpapering 
is  to  be  done.  So  if  the  wood  is  green  or  the  sap  not  all  removed, 
the  drying  out,  which  will  come  through  use  and  exposure  to 
the  air,  will  raise  the  grain  and  make  the  suAace  rough  or  the 
paint  peel. 

Old 

For  new  work  the  preparation  of  the  surface  is  a comparatively 
simple  process,  only  requiring  plenty  of  labor.  When  the  work 
is  one  of  refinishing  it  becomes  more  difficult,  but  far  more 
important. 

The  aim  must  be  to  put  the  surface  into  practically  the  same 
condition  as  new  wood,  for  with  this  done  the  process  of  finishing 
will  be  in  general  the  same  for  both  old  and  new  wood. 

If  the  old  wood  has  been  varnished  it  must  be  sandpapered 
down,  removing  all  the  old  varnish  and  making  the  surface 
clean  and  smooth.  At  times  it  is  necessary  to  remove  entirely 
the  paint  or  varnish  before  the  new''  coat  is  put  on.  Best  results 
are  thus  assured  by  having  the  painter  remove  all  the  old  coats. 
In  these  days  many  forms  of  paint  and  varnish  removers  are 
available,  but  these  should  be  used  with  extreme  care.  All 
evidence  of  the  remover  should  be  removed  before  the  painting 
is  done. 

Take  out  all  grease  spots  or  discolored  places.  When  these 
appear  on  soft  wood  they  should  be  washed  two  or  three  times 
with  benzine  and  wiped  dry.  If  the  wood  is  hard,  such  as  oak, 
etc.,  it  is  best  first  to  w'ash  the  spots  with  vinegar  and  then 


N IN 


benzine,  before  applying  any  coating.  In  all  cases  the  wood 
should  be  allowed  to  become  perfectly  dry  before  the  paint  or 
varnish  is  put  on.  When  thoroughly  dry  proceed  as  if  the  work 
was  new. 

If  the  old  work  is  painted,  thorough  sandpapering  and  cleaning 
must  be  given  first  and  all  loose  paint  must  be  removed. 

It  may  be  necessary  to  burn  off  the  paint,  not  only  to  remove 
the  finish  but  to  assure  a dry  surface  free  from  sap. 

The  wood  should  be  made  perfectly  smooth  so  that  when  the 
finish  is  put  upon  it,  it  will  present  a clear,  hard  surface. 


1 


Putting  on  fhe  Finish 

Methods  of  Finishing 

The  open-grained  woods  should  be  filled,  or  stained  and  filled, 
before  being  finished.  The  close-grained  woods  do  not  need  a 
filler  and  when  stained  should  have  a liquid  stain  put  on  accord- 
ing to  directions.  The  varnish  or  other  finish  should  follow. 

In  using  fillers  and  stains,  care  should  be  taken  to  preserve 
the  proper  relations  of  the  finished  wood  and  the  original.  For 
example,  oak  will  not  look  well  if  stained  mahogany,  nor  will 
poplar  be  very  satisfactory  with  oak  stain;  birch  is  most  beautiful 
with  mahogany  stain,  poplar  will  take  mahogany,  green,  etc., 
and  pine  may  be  treated  with  oak  stain,  either  light,  dark  or 
Flemish,  or  with  Walnut,  Early  English  and  similar  stains. 


Natural  Finish 

Preserves  and  illuminates  the  appearance  and  grain  of  the  wood. 

If  open-grained  wood  is  used,  it  should  be  filled  first  with 
Lowe  Brothers  Paste  Filler,  Light  Oak. 

When  the  filler  has  been  properly  used  according  to  directions, 
the  pores  being  well  filled,  the  surface  should  be  smoothed  care- 
fully with  sandpaper  and  then  varnished  with  “Little  Blue  Flag” 
Varnish,  using  the  particular  varnish  suited  to  the  location  and 
the  uses  of  the  wood. 

Note — “Little  Blue  Flag’’  General  Purpose  Varnish  is  a very  elastic 
durable  varnish,  suited  to  the  best  work  for  both  exterior  and 
interior. 

“Little  Blue  Flag”  Elastic  Interior  Varnish  is  a medium  dry- 
ing varnish  for  indoor  use,  with  high  lustre  and  great  durability. 

“Little  Blue  Flag’ ’ Quick  Action  House  Varnish  No.  64  is  a 
quick  drying  varnish  of  light  color,  which  becomes  very  hard. 
It  is  suitable  for  interior  woodwork  that  must  be  handled. 

“Little  Blue  Flag’’  Inside  Rubbing  Varnish  is  a quick  hard- 
ening varnish  for  indoor  work,  especially  for  use  where  flat  or 
dull  finish  is  desired. 

“Little  Blue  Flag' ' Durable  Floor  Varnish,  prepared  espe- 
cially for  floors,  is  very  good  for  surfaces  requiring  hard  wear. 

“Little  Blue  Flag’’  Spar  Varnish  is  the  best  wearing  varnish 
possible  for  outside  use  in  all  climates. 

If  close  grained  wood  is  used,  apply  the  varnish  as  above 
directly  to  the  wood,  giving  three  or  more  coats. 

Note — If  economy  is  desired,  the  first  coat  may  be  Lowe  Brothers 
Transparent  Varnish  Primer,  which  is  a good  liquid  filler. 

If  a rubbed  surface,  that  is,  a flat  or  dull  finish,  is  desired, 
on  either  soft  or  hard  wood,  use  the  Inside  Rubbing  Varnish  as 
indicated  above.  “Rubbing’’  requires  experience  and  as  a rule 
only  expert  painters  are  competent  to  give  a satisfactory  finish. 


FI.RVFN 


i he  natural  finish  of  wood  is  popular  for  all  parts  of  the  house, 
and  is  almost  always  used  in  kitchens  or  exposed  places. 

Where  rubbed  finish  is  desired,  it  is  wisest,  as  a rule,  in  order 
to  obtain  more  durable  results,  to  give  at  least  one  more  coat  than 
for  gloss  finish.  When  the  last  coat  is  properly  hardened,  it  may 
be  rubbed  with  pumice  stone  and  water  for  a dull  finish;  or  rubbed 
with  pumice  stone  and  oil  for  an  eggshell  (or  semi-gloss)  finish. 


Stain 

Giving  such  tones  and  colors  as  may  be  desired — Light  Oak, 
Dark  Oak,  Golden  Oak,  Flemish,  Weathered,  Early  English, 
Light  or  Dark  Mahogany,  Bog  Moss,  Green,  Walnut,  Cherry. 
These  effects  may  be  secured  on  either  open  or  close-grained 
woods  with  Lowe  Brothers  Oil  Stain,  which  is  non-fading  and 
therefore  better  than  ordinary  dyes  and  stains. 

Stains  like  Early  English,  Weathered,  etc.,  are  primarily  for 
use  on  Oak  to  give  the  popular  and  attractive  decorative  and 
mission  effects.  They  may  be  used  on  Pine,  E ir,  etc.,  when 
desired. 

For  close-grained  woods,  Pine,  Poplar,  etc.,  Oil  Stain  should 
be  used  directly  upon  the  wood.  If  the  full  dark  effect  of  the 
Stain  is  desired  it  may  be  allowed  to  dry  on  the  wood;  a clearer 
grain,  however,  will  be  shown  by  allowing  the  Stain  to  ‘set” 
(it  is  “set”  when  it  flats  out)  and  then  wiping  off  carefully  with 
a soft  cloth.  The  surface  may  then  be  varnished  (after  24 
hours)  in  the  usual  way. 

For  open-grained  woods  when  a varnish  finish  is  desired,  the 
Stain  should  be  applied  and  wiped  when  it  becomes  “set.” 
After  24  hours  allowed  for  drying,  the  wood  should  be  filled 
with  Lowe  Brothers  Paste  Wood  Filler  to  match  the  Stain,  and 
then  varnished,  using  “Little  Blue  Flag”  Inside  Rubbing  Var- 
nish, according  to  directions. 

Birch  is  usually  stained  to  give  a Mahogany  finish.  The 
most  beautiful  result  will  be  secured  by  staining  the  wood  in  the 
regular  way  with  Lowe  Brothers  Dark  Mahogany  Oil  Stain. 
When  dry  put  on  a coat  of  Lowe  Brothers  Mahogany  Glaze 
which  will  give  the  rich,  much  desired  appearance  of  old  mahog- 
any. If  a Brownish  Mahogany  tone  is  preferred,  use  first 
Walnut  Oil  Stain  and  then  the  Mahogany  Glaze.  In  either 
case  the  surface  should  then  be  finished  with  Varnish  in  the 
regular  way  and  for  handsomest  effect  should  be  properly  rubbed 
of  polished.  dM:/  ■ • • ■ 1 


TXVRLV  H 


For  wax  or  Mission  Finish  the  wood,  whether  open  or  close- 
grained,  should  be  stained  and  not  filled.  After  the  stain  is 
thoroughly  dry  a thin  coat  of  shellac  is  used,  followed  by  two 

coats  of  prepared  wax,  well  rubbed  in. 

Note — Some  results  are  obtained  without  Stain,  the  color  in  the  Filler 
acting  as  a stain.  Lowe  Brothers'  Light  Filler  is  colorless; 
Lowe  Brothers’  Dark  Filler  is  a medium  brown  and  shows  a 
dark  oak  effect  without  stain;  Lowe  Brothers’  Golden  Oak 
Filler  is  a very  dark  brown  and  when  used  without  stain  shows 
a dark  Antique  grain. 

Stain  is  very  popular  in  halls,  living  rooms,  dining-rooms,  and 
in  schools,  churches,  large  lodge  rooms,  etc.  It  lends  itself  very 
well  to  varied  plans  of  decoration. 


Enamel — Gloss  or  Flat 


A popular  form  of  finish  for  woodwork  in  all  parts  of  the 
house.  Enamel  is  a varnish  paint  and  combines  the  variety  of 
colors  of  the  paint  with  the  solid  finish  of  the  varnish.  It  is 
used  now  in 
every  part  of  the 
house,  from  the 
hall,  with  its 
Ivory  or  White, 
to  the  bedrooms 
in  White  or 
Tints  and  the 
kitchen  in  darker 
colors.  It  is  eco- 
nomical, being 
hard  drying  and 
glossy,  and  eas- 
ily cleaned. 

Poplar  and  other 
soft  woods  are 
generally  used 
for  enameling. 

Enamel  is  fin- 
ished either  in 
gloss,  eggshell 
gloss  (semi-gloss  effect),  or  flat  1 the  popular  dull  finish). 


In  finishing  put  on  a priming  coat  of  High  Standard  Flat 
White;  follow  i /ith  two  or  more  coats  of  the  same,  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  vork,  and  then  finish  with  one  or  two  coats  of  Extra 
White  Enamel,  Vernicol  Enamel  White,  or  Linduro  depending 


Tiff  KTi:  N 


upon  the  quality  desired.  If  a hard,  dull  finish  is  to  be 
secured,  rub  the  last  coat  with  pumice  stone  and  water. 
Experience  is  needed  to  accomplish  the  best  results  in  rubbing, 
and  the  greater  the  number  of  coats  the  harder  and  more  beauti- 
ful will  be  the  finish. 

Note — If  an  economical  semi-gloss  effect  is  to  be  secured,  use  Eggshell 
Gloss  White  for  the  last  coat  over  the  Flat  White,  or  if  a flat 
effect  is  wanted,  use  Flat  White  for  all  coats.  No  rubbing 
will  be  required.  If  tints  are  desired  in  bed  rooms  and  other 
parts  of  the  house,  use  Flat  White  tinted  with  a little  of  the 
final  color  for  the  under  coats,  and  finish  with  one  coat  of 
Lowe  Brothers  Interior  Enamel  of  the  required  tint.  If  a flat 
effect  in  tints  is  wanted,  use  Lowe  Brothers  “ Mellotone.” 

For  registers,  steam  pipes,  radiators,  iron  brackets  and  orna- 
mental necessities  use  Lowe  Brothers  Carriage  Gloss  Paint  for  a 
high  gloss,  hard  finish  in  beautiful  colors;  use  Aluminum  Paint 
for  silver  finish,  or  Vernicol  Stain  for  imitation  of  hard  wood  fin- 
ish and  for  black  and  white  surfaces. 

Refimshing  Old  Woodwork 

Natural 

All  old  woodwork  that  has  been  varnished  should  be  prepared 
as  indicated  on  page  9.  The  finishing  with  varnish  may  then 
follow  according  to  instructions  for  new  work  on  page  11. 

Stain 

The  old  woodwork  should  be  prepared  as  indicated  on  page  9. 
If  the  wood  is  not  in  condition  for  staining  directly — that  is,  if  it 
is  so  spotted  or  worn  that  the  stain  on  the  natural  wood  will  not 
look  well,  it  will  be  best  to  give  it  a coat  or  two  of  Vernicol 
Ground  Color.  Over  this  may  be  put  a coat  of  Vernicol  Stain, 
of  color  selected,  flowing  it  on  carefully.  Care  must  be  taken  to 
avoid  laps.  If  a darker  finish  of  the  same  color  is  desired,  two 
coats  may  be  used  instead  of  one,  sandpapering  between  coats. 
The  use  of  Graining  Color,  with  special  tools,  over  the  Ground 
Color,  is  popular. 

Painting 

An  inexpensive  and  durable  finish  for  old  woodwork  is  “High 
Standard”  Liquid  Paint.  Two  coats  should  be  given,  allowing 
plenty  of  time  between  coats  to  dry  and  harden. 

Enamel 

One  of  the  best  and  most  attractive  methods  for  old  woodwork 
is  enamel,  gloss  or  flat,  put  on  as  indicated  on  page  13.  Re- 
member that  a gloss  finish  will  show  inequalities  much  more 
than  flat,  so  that  if  the  woodwork  cannot  be  n ade  perfectly 
smooth,  it  may  be  best  to  use  flat  finishes. 


FOURTEEN 


Treatment  of  Floors 


Getting  Ready 

Act  upon  the  old  rule — first  select  your  wood,  then  prepare 
the  wood,  and  when  plenty  of  time  has  been  taken  for  these 
two  things,  you  may  begin  to  think  of  finishing.  The  great 
difficulty  with  most  builders  is  that  decisions  regarding  the  finish 
of  the  floors  are  left  until  the  last,  when  the  owner  is  in  a hurry 
to  get  in  and  the  builder  is  given  but  a few  days  to  do  the  work. 
At  the  same  time,  he  demands  from  the  painter  the  beautifully 
finished  floors  he  has  seen  in  some  home  where  weeks  of  time 
were  given  to  accomplish  the  results. 

Handsome  floors  are  secured  only  at  large  cost  of  labor,  time, 
patience  and  judgment,  to  say  nothing  of  the  money  to  be 
expended. 

The  usual  floors  now-a-days  are  “hard-wood  floors.”  This 
generally  means  maple,  oak  or  southern  pine — ordinarily  one  or 
both  of  the  last  two.  For  outside  floors  white  pine  is  probably 
the  best. 


Cleaning 

'Cleaning  a floor”  does  not  mean  taking  a bucket  of  water 
and  a mop  and  using  all  the  water  at  hand,  with  the  idea  that 
this  will  make  it  clean  and  get  it  ready  for  painting.  Soaking 
a floor  in  this  way  means  ordinarily  days  of  waiting  before  it  is 
properly  dry,  with  danger  then  that  some  of  the  water  still  re- 
mains in  the  pores  of  the  wood  to  be  drawn  out  when  the  room 
is  thoroughly  heated. 

Wash  the  floors  as  little  as  possible.  New  floors  usually  may 
be  swept  thoroughly,  and  the  spots,  if  any,  may  be  removed  by- 
sandpapering.  Where  the  floor  must  be  washed,  clear  water, 
with  a little  ammonia  or  alcohol,  is  almost  always  sufficient. 
Ammonia  must  be  avoided  if  possible,  because  of  its  tendency 
to  darken  the  wood  or  to  injure  the  paint  or  the  varnish.  Tur- 
pentine may  be  used  to  remove  stains,  particularly  those  from 
paint  or  grease.  Remember  that  the  floor  must  be  absolutely 
dry  before  the  finishing  is  done,  if  good  results  are  wanted. 

At  least  twenty-four  hours  should  be  allowed  after  cleaning, 
particularly  if  any  water  has  been  used.  If  possible,  the  room 


FI  PTKKN 


should  be  thoroughly  warmed  in  v/inter  and  the  temperature 
kept  at  the  proper  degree  before  any  finish  is  put  upon  the  floor. 

Old  floors  usually  require  very  thorough  cleaning.  If  they 
have  been  painted,  care  must  be  taken  that  all  old,  loose  paint  is 
removed.  All  grease  spots  and  stains  of  every  kind  should  be 
removed  if  the  floor  is  to  be  varnished.  If  it  is  to  be  painted, 
care  must  be  taken  that  grease  and  moisture  are  removed. 
Sandpapering  should  be  freely  resorted  to  in  both  new  and  old 
work,  for  cleaning  and  smoothing. 

A temperature  of  at  least  70°  F.  should  be  maintained  in  the 
room  when  the  floor  is  finished,  to  avoid  injury  to  varnish  or  paint. 


Finishing  New  Floors 

There  are  three  ways  in  present  use  for  finishing  floors, 
whether  old  or  new — shellac,  wax  and  varnish.  Staining  the 
floor  may  precede  any  of  these  methods.  The  finishing  of  old 
floors  depends  upon  their  previous  condition,  and  in  addition  to 
those  mentioned  above  may  include  painting  and  staining. 

Which  is  the  best  of  the  methods  for  new  floors  it  is  perhaps 
difficult  to  determine.  The  first — shellac — is  most  economical 
at  the  beginning,  and  when  good  shellac  is  secured  and  properly 
put  on  it  is  often  quite  satisfactory,  when  not  subject  to  very 
hard  wear.  The  second— wax — is  the  time-tried  method  and 
has  it  friends  among  workmen,  but  it  is  expensive,  laborious  and 
unsanitary,  and  must  have  constant  attention.  The  third — 
varnish — requires  more  time  and  labor  at  the  beginning  than  the 
others,  but  when  good  varnish  is  properly  used,  it  will  be  by  far 
the  most  durable.  The  use  of  varnish  is  increasing  very  rapidly, 
as  the  experience  in  American  homes  proves  it  to  be  in  every 
way  the  most  satisfactory. 

After  cleaning  and  preparing  the  wood,  the  floors  should  be 
finished  in  much  the  same  way  as  the  woodwork,  except  that 
they  require  more  attention,  particularly  to  the  quality'  of  the 
materials  to  be  used. 

Filling  and  Staining 

The  color  of  the  floor  is  often  varied  to  make  it  harmonize 
with  the  finish  of  the  woodwork  of  the  room.  As  a rule,  how- 
ever, floors  are  made  of  oak,  either  plain  or  quartered.  These 
are  generally  stained  to  give  a dark  oak  effect,  or  occasionally  to 
give  a green  or  reddish  tinge.  This  is  done  before  the  varnishing 
in  the  same  manner  a,  indicated  for  woodwork. 


*ii  vrrrv 


1"  loors  of  Oak  or  other  open-grained  wood  which  are  to  be 
finished  in  a natural  color  must  be  carefully  filled  with  Light 
Prepared  Wood  Filler,  properly  prepared,  in  the  same  manner  as 
the  general  wood  finish.  If  a color  is  desired  they  should  be  stained 
and  filled  in  the  usual  way  as  described  on  pages  11  and  12. 

Close-grained  woods  need  no  filler;  otherwise  they  are  treated 
in  the  same  manner.  (See  pages  11  and  12) 


The  advantage  of  shellac  is  its  ease  of  application  and  its  quick 
drying.  If  the  floor  must  be  used  in  a very  short  time,  Orange 
or  \\  hite  shellac  may  be  used.  The  former  darkens  the  wood 
somewhat  and  it  continues  to  grow  darker  with  the  lapse  of 
time.  Good  grain  shellac  should  always  be  used,  as  it  will 
show  heel  marks  if  the  very  best  quality  is  not  used. 

ax 

If  a waxed  floor  is  desired,  the  prepared  finish  of  a good  man- 
ufacturer should  be  secured  and  put  on  in  accord  with  the  direc- 
tions of  the  manufacturer. 

Varnish 

Open-grained  woods  should  be  filled  with  the  best  filler  on 
floors  just  as  on  standing  woodwork.  Over  this  filler,  when 
ready,  the  proper  number  of  coats  of  varnish  are  given.  Equally 
good  results  may  be  secured  by  applying  the  varnish  directly  to 


sivi:nti:hn 


the  wood,  even  though  a greater  number  of  coats  may  be  re- 
quired on  open-grained  wood.  Liquid  filler  should  never  be 
used  on  floors  of  close-grained  woods  like  pine,  poplar,  etc.  To 
assure  good  results  the  varnish  should  be  applied  directly  to  the 
wood. 

Two  or  three  coats  at  least,  in  addition  to  the  priming  coat  of 
varnish,  should  be  given  to  every  floor,  and  one  should  remem- 
ber that  even  three  coats  of  varnish  will  form  a film  of  not  over 
1-500  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  that  this  will  be  required  to 
stand  the  wear  of  rough  shoes,  heel  nails,  sand  and  dust  for 
months,  and  often  for  years  of  time. 

Note — Lowe  Brothers  “Little  Blue  Flag"  Durable  Floor  Varnish  is 
made  of  the  highest  class  of  materials  and  is  remarkably 
tough,  is  not  easily  marred  or  scratched,  wears  well  and  will 
resist  dampness. 

1'he  most  beautiful  floors  are  secured  by  rubbing  Durable 
Floor  Varnish  with  oil  and  pumice  stone,  giving  the  soft,  dull 
effect  that  is  regarded  as  the  finest  obtainable.  T his  finish  has 
the  added  advantage  of  not  showing  the  marks  of  castors  and 
heavy  chairs,  and  of  being  unusually  durable.  1 he  extra  expense 
of  the  work  at  the  begining  is  fully  overcome  by  the  added  wear 
and  beauty. 

Note — This  finish  is  not  possible  with  ordinary  varnish,  or  with  one 
containing  rosin.  “Durable  Floor"  is  made  with  this  use  in 
view,  and  the  rubbing  secures  a most  beautiful  finish.  For  this 
purpose  it  far  surpasses  w>ax.  Its  use  in  fine  work  is  increasing 
because  of  the  confidence  of  those  who  know  it. 

When  the  floor  is  to  be  rubbed,  at  least  two  days  should  be 
allowed  the  last  coat  of  varnish  for  drying  and  hardening. 

Refmishing  Old  Floors 

Paint 

If  the  old  floor  is  quite  old  or  rough  or  soiled,  it  may  be  best 
to  give  it  a coat  of  Floor  Paint.  This  may  be  secured  in  good 
and  durable  colors.  The  cracks  should  be  first  filled  with  crack 
filler,  though  it  must  be  remembered  that  even  with  good  fillers 
the  expanding  and  contracting  of  the  ordinary  floors  is  likely  to 
cause  some  of  the  filler  to  come  out. 

Lowe  Brothers  Crack  Filler  is  a practical  product 
for  filling  the  cracks  and  crevices  in  old  or  new  floors  of  hard  or 
soft  wood.  It  will  retain  its  elasticity,  will  not  dry  out  like  putty, 
and  offers  a good,  smooth  surface  for  varnishing  or  painting. 

Note — Lowe  Brothers  Hard  Drying  Floor  Paint  is  a varnish  floor  paint 
of  the  highest  quality,  and  is  remarkably  durable.  It  has  the 
combined  advantages  of  good  paint  pigment  and  high  class 
varnish. 

The  painted  floors  are  particularly  useful  for  kitchens,  work 
rooms,  etc. 


KIGHTIf  K\ 


Stain 


One  of  the  most  popular  methods  of  refinishing  old  floors  at 
the  present  time  is  staining.  The  old  Hoor  should  be  given  one 
or  more  coats  of  Vernicol  Ground  Color  in  order  to  give  it  a 
uniform  appear- 
ance. Over  this 
put  one  or  two 
coats  of  Vernicol 
Varnish  Stain, 
using  Light 
Oak.DarkOak, 

Walnutorwhat- 
ever  color  may 
be  desired  to  se- 
cure harmony  in 
the  finish.  Two 
coats  are  better 
than  one  for 
floors  of  this 
kind,  as  they  will 
add  toughness 
and  durability. 

It  must  be  remem- 
bered that  the  use  of  two 
coats  will  make  the  floor 
a little  darker  than  one  coat 
over  the  Ground  Color. 

Note.— Vernicol  Floor  and  Varnish  Stain  is  an  unusually  tough,  dur- 
able varnish  stain,  which  gives  the  proper  color  and  varnish  in 
the  same  coat.  It  is  economical  and  satisfactory  over  soft 
wood  floors,  particularly  of  the  old  style. 

A popular  method  of  improving  old  floors  is  to  grain  them. 
This  may  be  accomplished  by  putting  on  Vernicol  Graining 
Color,  of  the  color  desired,  over  the  Ground  Color,  using  a grain- 
ing tool  according  to  instructions,  which  any  careful  person  can 
do.  When  dry  put  on  one  or  two  coats  of  Vernicol  Stain  Clear. 
For  best  work  a coat  of  “Little  Blue  Flag”  Durable  Floor  Var- 
nish should  be  put  on  over  this.  Complete  instructions  for 
this  popular  method  of  finishing  floors  may  be  had  upon 
application. 


Care  of  Floors 

The  varnished  floor  is  the  easiest  of  all  to  keep  in  order.  Be- 
cause of  this  many  householders  think  that  it  needs  no  attention 


NINETEEN 


A little  care  regularly  will  assure  the  varnished  floor  lasting  for 
years.  The  floor  should  be  kept  clean  with  a hair  brush,  or 
with  a soft  cloth  tied  over  the  end  of  a broom,  as  is  the  custom 
with  many  housekeepers  at  the  present  time. 

The  use  of  skimmed  milk  and  water  in  the  cleaning  of  floors 
once  each  week  or  so,  rubbing  dry  with  a soft  cloth,  will  retain 
the  lustre.  An  occasional  rubbing  with  a cloth  moistened  with 
raw  linseed  oil,  also  adds  to  the  beauty  of  finished  floors. 

The  varnished  floor  which  has  been  heavily  used  may  be 
touched  up  with  a little  Lowe  Brothers  Durable  Floor  Varnish. 
Care  must  be  taken  that  the  new  coat  of  varnish  runs  even  with 
the  edge  of  the  boards. 

Floors  should  be  varnished  at  least  once  a year  in  places  where 
they  receive  heavy  wear.  Before  revarnishing  old  floors  on 
which  the  varnish  or  shellac  has  turned  black  or  is  badly  stained, 
the  old  varnish  should  be  completely  removed.  When  this  is 
done,  stains  in  the  wood  should  be  taken  out  as  in  the  case  of 
new  floors.  When  varnish  is  used  over  Stains,  care  must  be 
taken  to  have  the  Stain  properly  wiped  off  and  the  floor 
thoroughly  dry  before  the  varnish  is  put  on. 

In  revarnishing  floors  in  ordinary  condition,  when  it  becomes 
necessary,  the  floor  should  be  cleaned  with  a little  turpentine 
and  properly  sandpapered  to  make  it  smooth,  then  the  spots 
should  be  touched  up  with  a little  varnish  and  sandpapered. 
After  this  the  Durable  Floor  Varnish  may  be  used  satisfactorily. 


TWENTY 


Finishing  fhe^alls 

Walls  are  a 'background  to  a picture,  and  this  picture  is  a 
room,  with  furniture  to  occupy  the  middle  distance,  and  the 
foreground  peopled  by  living  men,  women  and  children.  Their 
qualities  as  a background  depend  on  many  circumstances,  such 
as  the  room’s  light,  shape  and  size,  its  type  of  architecture,  and 
the  needs  of  its  furniture  also;  because  a treatment  too  ornate  to 
put  behind  pictures  may  be  a charming  background  by  itself, 
that  is,  without  pictures.” 

It  is  evident  that  two  circumstances  must  be  regarded  in 
choosing  the  form  of  decoration;  first,  whether  the  wall  is  to  be 
a setting  for  pictures,  and  second,  whether  the  wall  is  to  be 
ornamental  without  pictures.  The  latter  allows  some  figures  on 
the  wall;  the  former  is  better  with  a plain  surface. 

Flatness,  solidity  and  uprightness  are  the  essential  character- 
istics of  a wall,  and  the  decoration  should  not  interfere  with 
these  characteristics. 

In  selecting  colors,  the  dull,  soft  colors  give  more  permanent 
satisfaction,  and  harmonize  more  easily  with  furnishings  than 
strong,  glossy,  striking  colors  which  please  but  a short  time. 
Remember  that  the  walls  are  the  most  prominent  feature  and 
give  tone  to  the  entire  room. 

It  is  not  necessary  for  good  taste  that  all  rooms  be  of  the  same 
color,  but  rooms  opening  into  each  other  should  harmonize  or  have 
agreeable  contrasts.  Tans,  greens  and  browns  usually  harmonize, 
as  do  blues  and  grays.  Green  and  red  give  agreeable  contrasts 
while  reds  and  orange  clash.  The  stronger  the  color  the  more 
decided  the  difference. 

Living  rooms,  dining  rooms  and  the  first  floor  generally,  re- 
quire more  decided  colors,  while  bedrooms  should  be  lighter  and 
have  the  dainty  effects  that  most  housekeepers  prefer.  Kitchens 
need  strong  durable  colors,  not  too  dark.  Bath  rooms  are  best 
in  light  tints,  as  these  assure  care  and  cleanliness. 

If  the  house  is  large  or  if  you  are  not  sure  as  to  best  effects, 
consult  a good  decorator. 

Th^  best  results  in  practical  house  decoration  are  secured  by 
using  a permanent  flat  finish  like  Lowe  Brothers  “Mellotone,” 
which  has  all  the  soft,  comfortable  qualities  of  water  colors,  and 
the  permanent,  sanitary,  washable  qualities  of  oil  paint. 


TWKNTYONK 


It  should  be  remembered  that  “Mellotone”  is  not  a kalsomine 
that  may  be  easily  rubbed  off;  — not  a water  paint  that  cannot  be 
cleaned  and  must  be  washed  off  before  renewing — not  a tem- 
porary wall  covering  serving  until  something  better  can  be  put 
on; — not  a cheap  imitation  of  a finer  finish; — not  something 
just  as  good  as  something  better; — not  a glossy  surface  that 
tires  you  with  its  insistence; — not  ordinary  colors  glaring  and 
strong, — but 

Mellotone’  is  a real  paint  of  proper  oils  and  pigments  to  give 
a very  attractive,  suitable,  sanitary  covering  for  interior  walls  and 
surfaces  of  every  kind; — is  a permanent,  washable,  non-fading 
finish  with  a solid  dignified  effect  that  is  appropriate  for  the 
finest  homes,  the  most  elegant  club  rooms  or  the  most  highly 
decorated  public  buildings,  as  well  as  for  the  cozy,  comfortable 
homey”  cottage  or  bungalow. 

‘ Mellotone  V beauty  is  recognized, — it  is  “soft  as  the  rain- 
bow tints,” — its  economy  has  been  proved,  its  sanitary  qualities 
are  well  known,  and  its  ease  of  working  makes  it  popular  with 
the  experienced  decorator  as  well  as  the  home  worker. 

Using  a good  product  is  only  one  of  the  elements  of  successful 
finish.  The  walls  or  other  surfaces  must  be  properly  prepared, 
there  must  be  proper  atmospheric  conditions;  the  paint  must  be 
put  on  covering  the  surface  thoroughly,  and  care  must  be  taken 
for  right  drying  and  hardening. 

Before  painting,  the  walls  must  be  cleaned  thoroughly,  espe- 
cially removing  grease  spots  and  dirt.  Old  paint,  kalsomine  and 
paper  must  be  cleaned,  and  the  loose  paint  or  paper  removed. 
When  the  walls  have  been  previously  finished  with  kalsomine 
or  water  colors,  particularly  if  several  coats  have  been  used,  the 
old  colors  should  be  washed  off  and  the  walls  left  clean  and  dry. 
Wet  plaster  should  never  be  painted.  Smooth  plaster,  wood  or  old 
painted  surfaces  should  be  sandpapered.  All  this  is  important 
to  insure  a permanent  finish. 

Cracks  in  the  walls  must  be  filled  with  plaster,  and  knots  in 
the  wood  covered  with  shellac. 

The  proper  method  of  first  coating  walls  that  are  to  be  finished 
with  “Mellotone”  will  depend  upon  the  condition  of  the  plaster 
— whether  it  is  hard  or  porous,  smooth  or  sand  finished,  old 
or  new. 

On  common  porous  plaster  walls,  which  are  generally  smooth, 
a mixture  of  one  part  of  “Mellotone”  and  from  two  to  three  parts 
of  Sealcote,  varying  according  to  surface  conditions,  is  recom- 
mended. If  the  wall  is  very  absorbent  it  may  be  necessary  first 


TWKNTY-TWO 


to  apply  a coat  of  Sealcote  straight  and  then  a coat  of  the  'Mello- 
tone”  and  Sealcote  mixture.  This  latter  process  will  need  in  a 
majority  of  cases  only  an  additional  final  coat  of  “Mellotone.” 

On  hard,  non-porous  plaster  walls,  whether  smooth  or  sand- 
finished,  the  best  first  coater  is  “High  Standard’’  Liquid  Paint 
because  of  its  penetrating  and  binding  properties.  Use  a color 
of  “High  Standard’’  Liquid  Paint  corresponding  to  that  of 
the  “Mellotone’’  chosen  for  finishing. 


A serviceable  first  coater  for  non-porous  plaster  walls  may 
be  made  by  mixing  equal  parts  of  ’Mellotone”  and  Sealcote, 
and  then  adding  boiled  linseed  oil  in  the  proportion  of  about  one 
quart  of  oil  to  a gallon  of  the  “Mellotone-Sealcote  mixture. 

If  burned  spots  from  the  plaster  show  through  the  sizing  coat 
or  the  first  coat  of  ‘Mellotone,”  apply  another  coat  of  size  over 
the  first,  and  let  this  thoroughly  dry  and  harden  before  putting 
on  the  next  coat.  Allow  forty-eight  or  more  hours  after  sizing 
for  thorough  drying  and  hardening. 

Glue  size,  gloss  oil  and  similar  cheap  first  coatings  should  never 
be  used  under  ’’Mellotone,’’  for  they  will  soften  up  and  give  a 
glossy  appearance  to  the  finished  work. 

When  the  wall  is  uniformly  dry  and  hard  and  glossy,  the 
finishing  coats  of  “Mellotone’’  may  be  given,  allowing  at  least 
forty-eight  hours  between  coats  for  drying  and  hardening.  While 


w »• 


at  times  one  coat  may  seem  to  be  sufficient  to  give  the  solid 
color  desired,  yet,  as  a rule,  two  coats  are  strongly  recommended. 
It  is  hardly  reasonable  to  expect  one  thin  coat  of  paint  to  with- 
stand the  washing  and  cleaning  of  years  of  wear. 

Old  walls  if  painted  before  and  in  good  condition  may  not 
need  sizing,  but  a little  boiled  linseed  oil — not  over  a pint  to  a 
gallon — should  be  added  to  the  “Mellotone.” 

If  the  old  walls  are  not  in  good  condition,  they  should  be 
thoroughly  cleansed  and  sized.  Burlap,  canvas  or  window 
shades  should  first  be  given  a coat  of  “High  Standard”  Liquid 
Paint.  On  metal  ceilings  no  sizing  is  necessary.  Usetwocoats 
of  “Mellotone”  as  it  comes  from  the  can.  When  “Mellotone" 
is  used  on  wood,  it  is  important  to  prime  with  “High  Standard" 
Liquid  White  or  White  tinted  with  the  color  to  be  used.  Then 
finish  with  two  coats  of  “Mellotone." 

Wall  boards  of  various  manufacturers  are  popular  in  building 
at  the  present  time.  In  general  they  may  be  finished  in  the 
same  manner  as  plastered  walls.  As  a rule  two  coats  are  suffi- 
cient— the  first  a mixture  of  Sealcote  and  “Mellotone,"  and  the 
second  “Mellotone”  of  the  final  color.  Especially  good  results 
may  be  secured  by  adding  to  the  first  coat  a little  boiled  linseed 
oil — -one  pint  or  less  to  the  gallon. 

The  use  of  “Mellotone"  over  wall  paper  is  not  recommended. 
This  is  not  only  unsanitary,  but  unless  the  first  covering  cf 
paper  is  smooth  and  very  tight,  the  paper  may  pull  off.  In  addi- 
tion it  is  impossible  to  know  whether  the  paper  contains  chemicals 
which  may  discolor  the  paint. 

If  “Mellotone”  is  used  at  any  time  over  paper,  the  surface 
must  have  a good  coat  of  size — ‘Sealcote” — put  on  in  the 
regular  way. 

“Mellotone”  may  be  used  for  stenciling  or  for  hand  decoration, 
just  as  water  colors.  Mellotoncd  walls  lend  themselves  to 
either  form  of  decoration  without  special  preparation.  Expe- 
rienced decorators  are  enthusiastic  over  the  advantages  of 
“Mellotone”  for  both  free-hand  work  and  fine  stenciling. 

“Mellotone”  should  be  applied  with  a good  wall  brush,  in 
much  the  same  manner  as  kalsomine.  It  should  be  brushed  on 
freely,  for  i:  works  easily — flowing  out  smoothly  and  evenly,  and 
does  not  show  laps.  It  should  not  be  rubbed  out  like  house  paint. 

The  colors  or  tints  of  “Mellotone”  may  be  modified  by  any 
thoughful  painter  by  mixing  colors  or  by  mixing  white  with 
tints.  In  this  way  an  infinite  variety  of  attractive  shades  may  be 
secured  although  the  regular  colors  are  in  every  way  satisfactory. 


I WEN  IN  I'Ol.K 


It  is  not  fair  to  expect  too  much  of  “Mellotone  ’ or  any  other 
paint.  The  fact  that  paint  is  ready-made  does  not  take  away 
the  necessity  for  brains  or  thought  in  its  application,  but  a little 
thought  and  practice  will  make  sure  better  results  than  can  be 
secured  by  any  “hand-made”  colors  or  cheap  imitations  of 
good  paint. 

Cleaning  Mellotone 

Mellotone  walls  may  be  cleaned  and  satisfactory  results 
secured  if  proper  care  is  taken  to  use  the  right  kind  of  cleaning 
preparations.  A non-alkali  soap,  such  as  Ivory  or  a neutral  oil 
soap,  dissolved  in  hot  water  will  do  the  work.  A way  to  test 
the  presence  of  alkali  in  a soap  is  to  taste  it.  Put  a little  on  the 
tip  of  the  tongue;  if  it  smarts  or  burns  it  contains  alkali  and 
should  not  be 
used.  If  the 
walls  are  greasy, 
adding  a lirtle 
kerosene  oil  to 
the  suds  will 
make  the  work 
easier.  There  are 
on  the  market 
today  several 
special  dry  pow- 
der and  paste 
cleaners  which 
are  rubbed  on 
the  walls  with  a 
damp  sponge 
and  then  rinsed 

off.  in  w'ashing  “Mellotone”  do  not  expect  the  soap  to 
do  the  work  without  any  rubbing  as  a soap  or  cleaning 
powder  strong  enough  to  remove  dirt  without  rubbing  is  a paint 
remover  and  the  paint  will  come  off  with  the  dirt.  Naturally 
any  paint,  whether  gloss  or  flat,  will  gradually  wear  down  under 
frequent  washings  and  in  the  course  of  time  the  surface  must 
be  rehnished. 

Experienced  painters  suggest  the  following  method:  Lay  off 
about  a square  yard  at  a time.  Cover  the  surface  with  a strong 
suds  applied  with  a sponge.  Then  wash  off  with  a sponge  or 
soft  brush,  rubbing  lightly,  using  only  a little  water.  Rinse  off 
with  a sponge  or  damp  chamois  skin  and  clear  water,  using 
downward  strokes. 


1 he  principal  difficulty  is  cleaning  sandhnished  walls,  because 
the  little  particles  of  sand  come  off  when  rubbed.  Especial  care 
must  be  taken  therefore  with  walls  of  this  kind.  The  trouble  is 
not  with  the  paint  but  with  the  wall. 

Quantity  and  Cost 

As  in  other  painting  work  the  price  per  gallon  is  not  the  real 
test  of  value.  What  it  will  do,  how  long  it  will  last,  how  easily 
it  may  be  kept  clean — these  are  the  first  questions. 

The  cost  per  square  yard  of  finished  work  is  sometimes  the 
basis  of  first  judgment.  On  this  basis  “Mellotone"  is  cheaper 
than  hand-made  flat  paint  because  it  covers  so  much  more  and 
does  it  so  much  better — one  coat  equaling  two  of  the  old  way. 

In  many  tests  “Mellotone’’  has  been  found  to  be  the  cheapest 
of  prominent  wall  coverings  because  it  covers  so  much  more 
surface  with  least  labor  and  does  it  so  thoroughly.  Of  course 
the  amount  covered  by  a gallon  of  Sealcote  or  “Mellotone’’ 
depends  on  the  condition  of  the  surface — whether  smooth  or 
sand-finished  plaster,  new'  or  old  wmod,  burlap  or  canvas,  wall 
board  or  steel. 

Practical  painters  have  found  that  a gallon  of  ‘Mellotone 
will  cover  from  600  to  800  square  feet  on  a smooth  surface, 
sometimes  even  more,  and  500  to  600  square  feet  on  sand-finished 
w^alls.  Experienced  painters  are  able  to  give  even  greater  covering. 

Good  painters  are  agreed  that  “Mellotone"  is  economical  in 
first  cost  and  cheapest  in  the  end  because  of  its  many  practical 
qualities.  Just  what  a square  yard  of  finished  work  wfilT  cost 
depends  upon  the  location,  for  the  labor  is  by  far  the  greatest 
part  of  the  cost.  The  material  for  a good  sized  room  would  not 
cost  over  four  or  five  dollars. 

“ Mellotone’s”  remarkable  popularity  and  the  approval  of  its 
quality  and  character  wherever  used  are  indicated  in  no  way- 
better  than  in  the  fact  that  “Mellotone  your  Walls”  has  come 
to  be  the  common  name  among  painters  in  many  parts  of  the 
country  for  finishing  u'alls  with  a flat  finish.  1'he  remarkable 
increase  in  its  use  and  its  universal  approval  by  experienced 
painters  and  decorators  are  evidence  that  it  is  a practical  finish 
(or  all  kinds  of  umrk. 


Things  fo  Remember 

Woodwork  will  be  receptive  to  varnish  or  stain  only  when  it 
is  dry  and  warm. 

Interior  work,  when  possible,  should  have  a coat  of  stain  or 
paint  on  the  back  before  leaving  the  mill. 

Open-grained  wood  should  be  well  filled  before  the  varnish  is 
applied  in  order  that  the  surface  may  be  even. 

In  choosing  colors  or  materials  for  finishing,  select  thpse  which 
will  retain  their  beauty  and  be  permanent.  Some  finishes,  most 
attractive  at  the  beginning,  soon  lose  their  beauty;' others  do  not 
wear  and  leave  the  surface  unprotected.  The  Lowe- Brothers 
finishes  are  made  for  service.  ■.»  - : ' , -t  "■ 

Puttying  should  be  done  after  the  first  coat.  Sandpapering 
should  be  done  lightly  after  each  coat  except  the  last,  in  order  to 
keep  a perfectly  smooth  surfaced  < • 

Varnish  should  be  used  exactly  as  it  leaves  the  factory.  Archi- 
tects and  property  holders  should  see  that  the  varnish  is  brought 
to  the  work  in  sealed  cans.  “Little  Blue  Flag’’  Varnish  is  put 
up  in  sealed  cans  only. 

Shellac  should  be  made  of  grain  alcohol  rather  than  wood 
alcohol.  Do  not  use  shellac  as  the  first  coat  on  outside  work  or 
in  bath  rooms. 

All  varnishing  and  enameling  should  be  done  with  the  tem- 
perature as  nearly  70°  F.  as  possible;  never  when  the  temperature 
is  below  50°.  The  temperature  should  be  kept  as  uniform  as 
mav  be  possible  until  the  varnish  has  set. 

Be  careful  to  have  the  surface,  whether  of  woodwork  or  floors, 
in  perfect  condition,  i.  e.  dry  and  level,  before  varnishing. 

Fair  work  can  only  be  done  with  suitable  brushes. 

If  you  must  be  economical,  reduce  the  number  of  coats  of  var- 
nish or  paint;  don’t  reduce  the  quality  of  the  material.  High- 
grade  varnish,  like  “Little  Blue  Flag,”  is  the  only  safe  one,  and 
the  same  may  be  said  of  “High  Standard  ’ Paint. 

Enamel  solves  the  problem  of  what  to  do  with  old  woodwork. 
It  is  beautiful,  lends  itself  to  proper  decorative  effects,  and  is 
easily  kept  clean. 

Remember  that  stains  like  Oil  Stain  or  Vernicol  will  show 
darker  on  soft  wood  than  on  hard  because  it  absorbs  moreof  the 
stain.  Differences  of  grain  in  the  same  kind  of  work  will  make 
a difference  in  the  effect  secured  by  staining. 


▼ W KM  N SHVKN 


Before  purring  the  stain  on  the  woodwork  or  floor  it  is  well  ti 
select  if  possible  a small  board  of  the  wood  used,  stain  and  finish 
it  in  the  manner  proposed  in  order  to  be  sure  that  the  desired 
effect  may  be  secured. 

In  the  same  way  it  is  well  to  test  the  color  of  “Mellotone”  for 
walls  by  painting  a small  board  or  panel  and  comparing  it  with 
the  woodwork.  This  will  show  whether  they  will  harmonize 
as  well  as  give  the  effect  on  the  wall.  It  is  easier  to  modify 
materials  before  the  work  is  really  begun  than  to  change  after 
they  are  on  the  wall  or  woodwork. 

High  Standard  ’ dealers  usually  carry  stencils  and  painters 
are  prepared  to  do  this  work  satisfactorily. 


The  drift  of  decoration  at  this  time  even  for  large  halls, 
churches,  lodge  rooms,  etc.,  is  to  perfectly  plain  schemes  of  color. 
Where  needed,  simple  stenciling  is  used  with  occasional  free 
hand  effects. 

"Mellotone”  is  washable;  so  are  Extra  White  Enamel,  Ver- 
nicol  Enamel  White,  Linduro,  Vernicol  Stain  and  Varnishes. 

Remembering  this  will  enable  any  householder  to  secure  a 
"waterproof”  bath  room  or  kitchen  and  one  that  will  be  fully 
satisfactory. 

The  materials  here  described,  largely  with  the  home  in  mind, 
are  equally  useful  for  churches,  college  and  school  rooms,  club 


I WI  N i y-kh.ih* 


rooms,  business  offices,  theaters,  lodge  rooms,  hospitals  and  any 
other  rooms  where  wear  as  well  as  beauty  are  desired. 

The  cost  of  work  is  important  but  it  is  a mistake  to  measure 
it  by  the  price  per  gallon  of  the  paint  or  varnish  used.  1 wo 
thirds  of  the  expense  usually  is  labor.  Hence  durability  and 
spreading  capacity  are  important  elements.  1 he  better  the 
material,  the  less  it  will  take,  as  a rule,  to  do  the  work  and  the 
longer  it  will  last. 

The  price  per  gallon  therefore  is  lost  sight  of  in  the  cost  for 
the  whole  work  measured  by  i:s  years  of  wear.  On  this — or  any 
other  fair  basis — the  Lowe  Brothers  products  have  been  proved 
to  be  most  economical. 

Remember  that  it  is  not  fair  to  expect  one  kind  of  varnish  to 
do  all  kinds  of  work.  One  varnish  is  made  to  withstand  the 
weather,  and  another  to  last  for  a lifetime  on  parlor  or  library 
woodwork.  Require  varnish  suited  to  each  purpose.  Honorable 
painters  are  always  ready  to  assist  the  architect  and  owner  in 
securing  the  best  kinds.  Unfortunately,  there  are  here  and  there 
dishonest  painters  who  will  keep  on  hand  empty  varnish  or 


enamel  cans  which  are  filled  from  the  same  barrel  whatever  may 
be  the  specifications.  Sealed  cans  are  the  only  safety,  and  cans 
of  turpentine,  benzine,  etc.,  should  not  be  allowed  about  the  work. 

In  choosing  wood  for  floors,  wearing  qualities  are  of  prime 
importance,  but  that  need  not  interfere  with  bringing  out  the 
beauty  of  the  material. 


TW  r.NTY-N  INK 


While  the  floor  is  being  varnished,  the  doors  and  windows 
should  be  closed  and  the  temperature  should  be  as  nearly  70°  as 
possible.  Varnish  is  especially  susceptible  to  chill  and  is  often 
ruined  because  care  is  not  taken  when  the  floor  is  being  finished. 

Especial  care  should  be  taken  when  the  work  is  being  done 
not  to  wear  shoes  with  heavy  nails  and  rough  soles.  The  shoes 
should  be  perfectly  clean. 

In  estimating  upon  the  use  of  any  of  these  products,  the 
painter  needs  to  know  their  spreading  capacity.  House  paint  is 
usually  figured  upon  the  quantity  required  to  cover  the  surface 
two  coats  over  priming  coat.  Lowe  Brothers  “High  Standard” 
Paint  covers  for  priming  600  to  800  sq.  ft.  per  gallon;  for  the 
second  and  third  coats  it  will  cover  325  to  400  sq.  ft.  per  gallon 
for  the  two  coats.  \V here  the  surface  is  in  particularly  good  con- 
dition “High  Standard”  will  cover  400  sq.  ft.  per  gallon  two 
coats.  “Mellotone”  will  cover  from  500  to  800  sq.  ft.  one  coat, 
depending  upon  the  condition  of  the  surface. 

Over  ordinary  walls  (particularly  old  ones  previously  painted), 
sand  finished  or  rough  coated  walls,  the  amount  of  surface  cov- 
ered w ill  be  less,  over  smooth  walls  in  good  condition,  greater. 
If  one  coat  is  used,  figure  on  about  double  the  amount  of  surface. 

Varnish  paints  like  "Linduro,”  Vernicol  Enamel  White, 
Interior  Enamel,  Inside  Gloss  W hite,  Floor  Paint,  etc.,  will 
cover  250  or  more  sq.  ft.  turn  coats,  per  gallon;  Vernicol  Floor 
and  Varnish  Stain,  300  or  more  sq.  ft.  two  coats. 

In  Canada  where  the  Imperial  gallon  is  used,  the  covering 
capacity  is  about  twenty  per  cent  greater  per  gallon,  than  the 
figures  above  indicate. 

The  Lowe  Brothers  Company  will  be  pleased  to  answer  any 
questions  of  architect,  painter  or  householder,  in  order  that  there 
may  be  no  misunderstanding  as  to  the  best  method  of  using  the 
products. 

It  is  alwrays  important  to  choose  the  right  finish  for  any  work 
to  be  done.  Quality  as  well  as  beauty  is  essential.  The  Lowe 
Brothers  Company  has  from  the  beginning  of  its  history  insisted 
upon  quality,  and  it  has  refused  to  make  many  classes  of  products 
because  its  experienced  and  scientific  men  have  demonstrated  a 
lack  of  quality  in  some  one  or  more  of  the  essential  factors  of  a 
durable  and  satisfactory  product.  In  making  suggestions,  there- 
fore, this  Company  will  always  give  a candid  judgment,  whether 
it  is  to  the  advantage  of  its  products  or  not.  The  confidence  of 
users  is  the  first  aim  of  the  makers  of  “High  Standard”  products. 


Tit  I RTT 


word 


In  this  booklet  many  things  have  been  stated  which  ever}' 
painter  knows,  because  it  is  thought  best  to  remind  him  and  his 
helpers  of  the  little  things  needed  to  give  best  results  in  home 
decoration  and  because  this  may  be  a text  book  for  him  to  use 
with  those  whom  he  is  training. 

The  principles  of  color  and  decoration  here  given  are  stated 
with  the  home  in  mind.  They  apply  equally  to  large  buildings 
— office  and  public  buildings,  schools,  churches,  apartments, 
hospitals,  etc.,  which  are  now  almost  universally  finished  in  some 
of  the  methods  here  suggested. 

This  company  is  always  ready  to  give  suggestions  or  advice 
to  those  who  wish  special  plans  for  colors. 

The  Lowe  Brothers  Company’s  oldest  department  is  that  of 
general  house  paint  for  exterior  as  well  as  interior.  “High 
Standard”  Liquid  Paint  products  have  had  an  enviable  reputation 
for  a generation.  Though  this  booklet  is  devoted  to  interior 
finishes,  the  Company  is  prepared  to  give  equally  careful  advice 
regarding  exteriors.  “Paint  and  Painting,”  “Homes  Attractive,” 
“Varnish  and  Varnishing”  and  other  pamphlets  tell  the  story. 
They  may  be  had  for  the  asking. 

Lowe  Brothers’  dealer-agents  are  in  almost  every  community 
and  are  prepared  to  supply  the  wants  of  paint  users  promptly 
and  satisfactorily.  They  wfill  furnish  color  cards  and  suggestions 
upon  request. 


Dayton,  Ohio 

Boston  Jersey  Ci:y  Chicago  Kansas  Cry 
Minneapolis  Toronto 


The  Right  Finish  for  Every 
Surface 

For  Exteriors 

"High  Standard"  Liquid  Paint  (Sixty  Colors ) 

Porch  Floor  Paint  ( Eight  Colors ) 

Flat  Brick  Colors  (Three,  Colors) 

Concrete  and  Cement  Coating*!'  Fourteen  ( ’olors) 

Elastic  Cement  Floor  Finish  (Ten  Colors) 

Rich-Tone  Shingle  Stain  ( Fourteen  Colors) 

"Little  Blue  Flag"  Spar  Varnish 

"Little  Blue  Flag”  Elastic  General  Purpose  Varnish 
Linduro 

Standard  Barn  Paint  ( Four  Colors) 

Standard  Metallic  Paint  ( Four  Colors) 

For  Interiors 

Linduro 

Vernicol  Enamel  White 
Extra  White  Enamel 

Interior  Enamel  (interior  Gloss  Colors)  Fourteen  Shades  a nil  White  and  lllark 
“Mellotone  ( Sixteen  Colors  and  II  hite,  and  lilurk ) 

Sealcote 

Transparent  Varnish  Primer 
Prepared  Wood  Filler 

Vernicol  Stain  ( Eleven  Colors . Chur  and  (Iron ml  ( ’olors) 

Non-Fading  Oil  Stain  (Twelve  Colors) 

Mahogany  Glaze  Color 
Graining  Colors 
Distemper  Colors 

Auto-Carriage  Gloss  Co.ors  (Nine  Colors  a ml  Char) 

Aluminum  Paint 

"Little  Blue  Flag"  Inside  Rubbing  Varnish 
"Little  Blue  Flag”  Quick  Action  House  Varnish  No.  64 
"Little  Blue  Flag"  Elastic  Interior  House  Varnish 
"Little  Blue  Flag”  Crystal  Finish 

For  Floors 

Hard  Drying  Floor  Paint  (Tired re  Colors) 

Vernicol  Stain  ( I'll  even  Colors.  Clear  and  ((round  l o!  nr  J 
Elastic  Cement  Floor  Finish  (Ten  Colors) 

Lowe  Brothers  Crack  Filler 

"Little  Blue  Flag”  Durable  Floor  Varnish 

For  Amateur  House  Use 

SCREENS.  WAGONS,  ETC. 

Out-Door  Furniture  Colors  ( Six  Colors) 

Bath  Tub  Enamel 
Screen  Paint  (Tiro  Colors) 

Auto-Carriage  Gloss  ( ine  Colors  and  ( tear) 

Wagon  Paint  ( Five  Colors  and  Clear  I arnish) 

The  Lowe  Brothers  Company 

PAINTMAKERS-VARN1SHMAKERS 

DAYTON.  OHIO 

Boston  Jersey  City  Chicago  Kansas  City  Minneapolis 

LOWE  BROTHERS,  LIMITED 

TORONTO,  CANADA 


»yfi  nr*A«? 

• nvnjm 


Common  Sense  About  Interiors 

Suggestions  for  securing  attractive  results  in  painting,  Varnishing,  enameling 
and  staining  the  interiors  illustrated  in  this  booklet 

Page  4 — Colonial  Hallway 

Linduro  Enamel  woodwork  with  Mahogany  posts,  stairs  and 
furniture  finished  with  Mahogany  Glaze;  walls — “Mellotone” 
tinted  Pompeian  Red;  ceiling  -Gray  Tint;  floor — Quartered 
Oak  finished  with  “Little  Blue  Flag’’  Durable  Floor  Varnish. 

Page  6 — Reception  Hall 

Woodwork — Non-Fading  Oil  Stain,  Early  English;  walls — 
“Mellotone"  Dark  Tan;  ceiling — Light  Tan;  floor — “Little 
Blue  Flag"  Durable  Floor  Varnish. 

Page  10 — Library 

Woodwork — -Non-Fading  Oil  Stain,  Weathered  Oak;  walls 
— “Mellotone"  Dark  Tan;  ceiling — Ivory ; Mission  furniture; 
fire-place  Dull  Red. 

Page  13— Bath  Room 

\\  oodwork — Extra  YV  hite  Enamel;  wainscoting — Blue  Tint 
“Mellotone;”  walls — Light  Blue  Tint  “Mellotone" 

Page  17 — Craftsman  Living  Room 

Woodwork — Non-Fading  Oil  Stain  Golden  Oak;  walls — lower 
panel  Dark  Tan  “Mellotone,  "upper  panel  Light  Tan.  Spanish 
leather  cushions;  rug — in  Browns  and  Greens.  Stone  fire-place. 

Page  19 — Living  Room 

Woodwork — Dark  Mahogany  Oil  Stain;  walls — Green  Tint 
“Mellotone"  with  Cream  Ceiling;  Quartered  Oak  floor  finished 
with  “Little  Blue  Flag"  Varnish;  fireplace — Dark  Green  tile. 

Page  20 — Colonial  Parlor 

Woodwork — Linduro  Enamel;  walls — Golden  Yellow  “Mello- 
tone; Frieze — Light  Cream  “Mellotone;”  Mahogany  furniture. 

Page  23 — Bed  Room 

Woodwork — Extra  White  Enamel;  walls  and  ceiling — Gray 
Tint  “Mellotone;"  Wilton  Rug;  Oak  Floor  finished  with 
“Little  Blue  Flag"  Varnish. 

Page  25 — Bed  Room 

Woodwork — Linduro  Enamel  White;  walls — Blue  Tint  “Mel- 
lotone;' ceiling — Cream  Tint;  Maple  floor  finished  with  “Little 
Blue  Flag"  Durable  Floor  Varnish. 

Page  28— Dining  Room 

Woodwork — Mahogany  Oil  Stain  finished  with  Mahogany 
Glaze;  walls — Olive  Green  “Mellotone;"  ceiling — Light  Cream; 
Mahogany  furniture;  Bokhara  rug  with  Red  and  Green  tones. 

Page  29  Ki  tc  hen 

Woodwork — Interior  Enamel  Agate  Gray;  walls — Dark  Tan 
“Mellotone;"  ceiling — Light  Tan;  Yellow  Pine  floor  painted 
with  Hard  Drying  Floor  Paint  A 12. 


I 


